Role Of Antioxidants In The Skin Anti Aging Effects – Snail mucus obtained using a cruelty-free method maintains viability and controls the occurrence of inflammation: a focus on fibroblasts
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Role Of Antioxidants In The Skin Anti Aging Effects
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By Erika F. Costa Erika F. Costa Scilit Preprints.org Google Scholar View Publications 1, Wagner V. Magalhães Wagner V. Magalhães Scilit Preprints.org Google Scholar View Publications 2 and Luiz C. Di Stasi Luiz C. Di Stasi Scilit Preprints. org Google Scholar Show publications 1, *
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Laboratory of Phytomedicine, Pharmacology and Biotechnology (PhytoPharmaTech), Department of Biophysics and Pharmacology, Institute of Life Sciences, São Paulo State University (UNESP), Botucatu 18618-689, SP, Brazil
Submission received: August 17, 2022 / Revised: October 11, 2022 / Accepted: October 12, 2022 / Published: November 3, 2022
Although aesthetic benefits are a desirable effect of treating skin aging, they are also important for the control of various skin diseases, especially in the elderly. The development of new dermocosmetics has increased rapidly due to consumer demand for non-invasive products with fewer side effects than those currently available on the market. Natural compounds of plant origin and herbal-based formulations have become popular due to their various safe active ingredients that act on different skin aging signaling pathways through different mechanisms of action. On this basis, the aim of the review was to identify recent advances in research on herbal products, including herbal formulations and isolated compounds with anti-aging properties for the skin. The studies evaluated the biological effects of herbal products in in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo studies and highlighted the effects reported in clinical studies with available pharmacodynamic data demonstrating their protective effects for treatment, prevention or Control of human skin proves aging. It was found that gallic and ferulic acid as well as herbal formulations with Thymus vulgaris, Panax ginseng, Triticum aestivum or Andrographis paniculata are the most promising natural products for the development of new dermocosmetics with anti-aging properties for the skin.
Aging is a progressive decline in physiological function leading to either age-related diseases or geriatric syndromes, including cardiovascular and obstructive pulmonary diseases, musculoskeletal disorders, various cancers, neurodegenerative diseases and skin diseases [1, 2]. Nowadays, the hypothesis that the aging process, age-related diseases and geriatric syndromes share the same molecular and cellular mechanisms is highlighted [2]. Taken together, all age-related diseases, physiological aging and geriatric syndromes impose a heavy economic and psychological burden on patients and their families [1, 3]. Among the various signs of aging, skin aging is a process that is accompanied by changes in the appearance of the skin, aesthetic appearance and the development of various skin diseases. Skin aging is a natural, physiological, biochemical and time-dependent process that results from a complex interaction between intrinsic and extrinsic factors that produce cumulative deleterious changes in the skin layers, morphology, physiology and appearance [4]. Intrinsic factors are determined by genetic and physiological changes, while extrinsic factors are promoted by external stimuli, including ultraviolet (UV) radiation, diet, air pollution, tobacco and alcohol abuse, lifestyle, toxins, and others [5]. Physiological skin changes affect regulation of body temperature, fluid balance, loss of electrolytes and proteins, production of vitamin D, waste elimination, sensory perception, immune response and skin barrier function [5, 6]. Aesthetic effects such as wrinkles, skin spots, loss of elasticity and thinning affect the appearance of the skin and lead to emotional, mental and psychosocial problems [4]. On the other hand, the skin aging process is also closely linked to an increased occurrence of skin diseases and the development of dermatoses, benign and malignant tumors, itching, chronic wounds, dry skin and skin depigmentation, which affect skin health and reduce the likelihood of a healthy aging process [4, 6 ].
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Skin is considered the largest organ in the human body and plays a key role in communication between the human body and the outside world, including other organisms. The skin protects the body from mechanical and chemical damage, provides innate and adaptive responses, enables the body’s thermoregulation and functions as a sensory organ. In addition, skin is important for personal identity and is closely related to physical appearance, self-esteem and self-consistency, the basic self-concepts that determine the consumption of cosmetics, personal care products and other aesthetic products [7] . Self-esteem and self-determination are the basis for consumers purchasing cosmetic products. The global size of the cosmetics industry was reported at $380.2 billion in 2019 and forecasts suggest it will reach $463.5 billion by 2027 [8]. In recent years, cosmetic and pharmaceutical companies have dramatically increased their development of new, safe and effective drugs and therapeutic strategies to treat and prevent skin aging diseases [3]. Today, there are several anti-aging strategies available to dermatologists, but each has advantages and disadvantages. Approaches to prevent and treat skin aging, including cosmetic skin care, proper sun protection, aesthetic non-invasive procedures, topical products (with antioxidants and cell-regulating properties), invasive procedures (chemical peels, radiofrequency, injectable skin biostimulators and fillers). others), systemic agents (antioxidants and hormone therapy) and strategies to limit or reduce the exogenous factors of aging, such as: B. correcting one’s own lifestyle and behavioral habits have recently been revised [9]. On the other hand, consumers are concerned about their health and well-being and demand non-invasive products with safety and effectiveness based on natural bioactive products in cosmetics and other skin care products [5]. Although bioprospecting of active natural products, mainly of plant origin, has been eclipsed by the emergence of new biotechnologies, the synthesis of new chemical compounds and international regulatory systems for access and conservation of biodiversity, plant biodiversity is a rich source of new active molecules. The chemical diversity of plant compounds includes different classes of secondary compounds, among which the following stand out: phenol, flavonoids and derivatives, anthocyanidins, anthocyanins, tannins, coumarins, terpenoids, stilbenes and alkaloid compounds [10]. In addition, plant species are also an exceptional source of raw materials for the development of standardized herbal products with scientific evaluation of their effectiveness, safety and quality control. They are useful in combating many diseases, including the prevention and treatment of skin diseases, especially skin aging processes.
The aim of this review was to update and systematize the available data on the pharmacological activities of herbal products assessed through in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo experimental studies, including clinical trials, in order to provide data and To provide insights for further studies and an assessment of the possible applications of these active ingredients for the development of new cosmetic formulations. For this purpose, a comprehensive review was carried out over the last 10 years using the PubMed and Science Direct databases, targeting the main herbal products that may be reported as anti-aging products, especially those that are capable of , the associated endogenous mediators and transcription factors to positively modulate skin aging. The scientific evidence analysis was based on the use of in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo studies, giving priority to products with clinical studies and pharmacodynamic data. Although several selected products were based on plant extracts and various herbal formulations that have not been chemically characterized, the formulations highlighted here have been fully evaluated in pharmacological studies and can be used for the development of herbal products with anti-aging properties for the skin, especially those described as active products in clinical trials. Here we summarize the main products of plant origin, highlighting those that have effectiveness, safety, quality control and pharmacological action on the main processes associated with skin aging, such as skin elasticity, skin wrinkling, skin hydration, skin pigmentation and oxidation stress.
The skin consists of epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue, which are affected to varying degrees by the aging process. However, the effects of skin aging are most evident in the dermis, which, when atrophied by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, promotes wrinkle formation and reduces skin elasticity. Skin atrophy is closely related to reduced amounts of extracellular matrix (ECM), including collagen, elastin, proteoglycans, glycosaminoglycans, fibronectin and other glycoproteins [5].
Collagen, the main component of the ECM, can be classified into the fibril family, including collagen types I, II, III and
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